Washington, D.C. 20549-1004

 

 

FORM 10-K

 

(Mark One)

 

Commission file number 1-14064

 

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

(Exact name of registrant as specified in its charter)

 

 

Registrant’s telephone number, including area code 212-572-4200

 

 

Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act:

 

Title of each class		Name of each exchange on which registered
Class A Common Stock, $.01 par value		New York Stock Exchange

 

 

Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(g) of the Act:

None

 

Indicate by check mark whether the registrant (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to file such reports), and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days.  Yes  ý  No o

 

Indicate by check mark if disclosure of delinquent filers pursuant to Item 405 of Regulation S-K is not contained herein, and will not be contained, to the best of registrant’s knowledge, in definitive proxy or information statements incorporated by reference in Part III of this Form 10-K or any amendment to this Form 10-K. o

 

Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is an accelerated filer (as defined in Rule 12b-2 of the Act).  Yes ý No o

 

The aggregate market value of the registrant’s voting common equity held by non-affiliates of the registrant was approximately $4.52 billion at December 31, 2003 (the last business day of the registrant’s most recently completed second quarter).*

 

At August 31, 2004, 133,827,580 shares of the registrant’s Class A Common Stock, $.01 par value, and 92,612,901 shares of the registrant’s Class B Common Stock, $.01 par value, were outstanding.

 

Documents Incorporated by Reference

 

Document		Where Incorporated
Proxy Statement for Annual Meeting of Stockholders to be held November 5, 2004		Part III

 

* Calculated by excluding all shares held by executive officers and directors of registrant and certain trusts without conceding that all such persons are “affiliates” of registrant for purposes of the Federal securities laws.

 

 

THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.

 

INDEX TO ANNUAL REPORT ON FORM 10-K

 

		Page
Part I:
Item 1.	Business	2
Item 2.	Properties	12
Item 3.	Legal Proceedings	12
Item 4.	Submission of Matters to a Vote of Security Holders	13
Part II:
Item 5.	Market for Registrant’s Common Equity, Related Stockholder Matters and Issuer Purchases of Equity Securities	14
Item 6.	Selected Financial Data	16
Item 7.	Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations	17
Item 7A.	Quantitative and Qualitative Disclosures About Market Risk	35
Item 8.	Financial Statements and Supplementary Data	35
Item 9.	Changes in and Disagreements with Accountants on Accounting and Financial Disclosure	35
Item 9A.	Controls and Procedures	35
Part III:
Item 10.	Directors and Executive Officers of the Registrant	35
Item 11.	Executive Compensation	35
Item 12.	Security Ownership of Certain Beneficial Owners and Management	35
Item 13.	Certain Relationships and Related Transactions	35
Item 14.	Principal Accounting Fees and Services	35
Part IV:
Item 15.	Exhibits, Financial Statement Schedules and Reports on Form 8-K	36
Signatures		39

 

1

 

Forward-Looking Statements

 

This Annual Report on Form 10-K includes “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995.  Such statements include, without limitation, our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information systems initiatives, new methods of sale and future operations or operating results.  Although we believe that our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, we cannot assure that actual results will not differ materially from our expectations.  Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations are described herein; in particular, see “Item 7. - Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Forward-Looking Information.”

 

PART I

 

Item 1.  Business.

 

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., founded in 1946 by Estée and Joseph Lauder, is one of the world’s leading manufacturers and marketers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products.  Our products are sold in over 130 countries and territories under the following well-recognized brand names: Estée Lauder, Clinique, Aramis, Prescriptives, Origins, MžAžC, Bobbi Brown, La Mer, Aveda, Stila, Jo Malone, Bumble and bumble, Darphin and Rodan + Fields.  We are also the global licensee for fragrances and cosmetics sold under the Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan, kate spade and Michael Kors brands.  Each brand is distinctly positioned within the market for beauty products.

 

We are a pioneer in the cosmetics industry and believe we are a leader in the industry due to the global recognition of our brand names, our leadership in product innovation, our strong market position in key geographic markets and the consistently high quality of our products.  We sell our prestige products principally through limited distribution channels to complement the images associated with our brands.  These channels, encompassing over 20,000 points of sale, consist primarily of upscale department stores, specialty retailers, upscale perfumeries and pharmacies and, to a lesser extent, freestanding company-owned stores and spas, our own and authorized retailer web sites, stores on cruise ships, in-flight and duty-free shops.  We believe that our strategy of pursuing limited distribution strengthens our relationships with retailers, enables our brands to be among the best selling product lines at the stores and heightens the aspirational quality of our brands.

 

We also sell products at prestige salons (Aveda and Bumble and bumble) and plan to begin selling newly developed brands, American Beauty, Flirt! and Good Skin ™, at Kohl’s Department Stores in fiscal 2005.

 

In February 2004, we sold the assets and operations of our reporting unit that sold jane brand products.  We acquired the brand in October 1997.

 

We have been controlled by the Lauder family since the founding of our company.  Members of the Lauder family, some of whom are directors, executive officers and/or employees, beneficially own, directly or indirectly, as of August 31, 2004, shares of Class A Common Stock and Class B Common Stock having approximately 88.4% of the outstanding voting power of the Common Stock.

 

Unless the context requires otherwise, references to “we,” “us,” “our” and the “Company” refer to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. and its subsidiaries.

 

Products

 

Skin Care - Our broad range of skin care products addresses various skin care needs for women and men.  These products include moisturizers, creams, lotions, cleansers, sun screens and self-tanning products, a number of which are developed for use on particular areas of the body, such as the face or the hands or around the eyes.  Skin care products accounted for approximately 37% of our net sales in fiscal 2004.

 

Makeup - We manufacture, market and sell a full array of makeup products, including lipsticks, mascaras, foundations, eyeshadows, nail polishes and powders.  Many of the products are offered in an extensive array of shades and colors.  We also sell related items such as compacts, brushes and other makeup tools.  Makeup products accounted for approximately 37% of our net sales in fiscal 2004.

 

Fragrance - We offer a variety of fragrance products for women and men.  The fragrances are sold in various forms, including eau de parfum sprays and colognes, as well as lotions, powders, creams and soaps that are based on a particular fragrance.  Fragrance products accounted for approximately 21% of our net sales in fiscal 2004.

 

2

 

Hair Care - Hair care products are offered mainly in salons and in freestanding retail stores and include hair color and styling products, shampoos, conditioners and finishing sprays.  In fiscal 2004, hair care products accounted for approximately 4% of our net sales.

 

Given the personal nature of our products and the wide array of consumer preferences and tastes, as well as competition for the attention of consumers, our strategy has been to market and promote our products through distinctive brands seeking to address broad preferences and tastes.  Each brand has a single global image that is promoted with consistent logos, packaging and advertising designed to enhance its image and differentiate it from other brands.

 

Estée Lauder - Estée Lauder brand products, which have been sold since 1946, are positioned as luxurious, classic and aspirational.  We believe that Estée Lauder brand products are technologically advanced and innovative and have a worldwide reputation for excellence.  The broad product line principally consists of skin care, makeup and fragrance products that are presented in high quality packaging.

 

Clinique - First introduced in 1968, Clinique skin care and makeup products are all allergy tested and 100% fragrance free and have been designed to address individual skin types and needs.  The products are based on the research and related expertise of leading dermatologists.  Clinique skin care products are generally marketed as part of the 3-Step System: Cleanse, Exfoliate, Moisturize.  Clinique also offers fragrances for men and women and a line of hair care products.

 

Aramis - We pioneered the marketing of prestige men’s grooming and skin care products and fragrances with the introduction of Aramis products in 1964.  Aramis continues to offer one of the broadest lines of prestige men’s products.

 

Prescriptives - We developed and introduced Prescriptives in 1979.  Prescriptives is positioned as a color authority with an advanced collection of highly individualized products primarily addressing the makeup and skin care needs of contemporary women with active lifestyles.  The products are characterized by simple concepts, minimalist design and an innovative image and, through a system of color application and extensive range of makeup shades, accommodate a diverse group of consumers.

 

Origins – Origins was introduced in 1990.  It is positioned as a plant-based line of skin care, makeup and aromatherapy products that combine time-tested botanical ingredients with modern science to promote total well-being.  Origins sells its products at our freestanding Origins stores and through stores-within-stores (which are designed to replicate the Origins store environment within a department store), at traditional retail counters, in perfumeries and directly to consumers over the Internet.

 

Tommy Hilfiger - We have an exclusive global license arrangement to develop and market a line of men’s and women’s fragrances and cosmetics under the Tommy Hilfiger brand.  We launched the line in 1995 with a men’s fragrance, tommy.  Today, we manufacture and sell a variety of fragrances and ancillary products for men and women.

 

MžAžC - MžAžC products comprise a broad line of color-oriented, professional cosmetics and professional makeup tools targeting makeup artists and fashion-conscious consumers.  The products are sold through a limited number of department and specialty stores, at freestanding MžAžC stores and directly to consumers over the Internet.  We acquired the companies behind MžAžC in three stages: in December 1994, March 1997 and February 1998.

 

Bobbi Brown - In October 1995, we acquired the Bobbi Brown line of color cosmetics, professional makeup brushes and skin care products.  Bobbi Brown products are manufactured to our specifications, primarily by third parties, and sold through a limited number of department and specialty stores and directly to consumers over the Internet.

 

La Mer - La Mer products primarily consist of moisturizing creams, lotions, cleansers, toners and other skin care products.  The line, which is available in very limited distribution in the United States and certain other countries, is an extension of the initial Crème de la Mer product that we acquired in 1995.

 

Donna Karan Cosmetics - In November 1997, we obtained the exclusive global license to develop, market and distribute a line of fragrances and other cosmetics under the Donna Karan New York and DKNY trademarks, including certain products that were originally sold by The Donna Karan Company.  We launched the first DKNY women’s fragrance in fiscal 2000 and the first DKNY men’s fragrance in fiscal 2001.  Under this license, fragrances have been expanded to include extensive lines of companion bath and body products.

 

3

 

Aveda - We acquired the Aveda business in December 1997 and have since acquired selected Aveda distributors and retail stores.  Aveda, a prestige hair care leader, is a manufacturer and marketer of plant-based hair care, skin care, makeup and fragrance products.  We sell Aveda products to third-party distributors and prestige salons and spas, cosmetology schools, certain non-U.S. department stores and specialty retailers and directly to consumers at our own freestanding Aveda Experience Centers and certain Aveda Institutes.

 

Stila - In August 1999, we acquired the business of Los Angeles-based Stila Cosmetics, Inc.  Stila is known for its stylish, wearable makeup products and eco-friendly packaging and has developed a following among young, fashion-forward consumers.  Stila products are currently available at the brand’s flagship store in Los Angeles, California, and also in limited distribution in the United States and certain other countries.

 

Jo Malone - We acquired London-based Jo Malone Limited in October 1999.  Jo Malone is known for its prestige skin care, fragrance and hair care products showcased at its flagship store in London.  Products are also available through a company catalogue, at freestanding stores and at a very limited group of specialty stores in the United States, Canada and the United Kingdom.

 

Bumble and bumble - In June 2000, we acquired a controlling majority equity interest in Bumble and Bumble Products, LLC, a marketer and distributor of quality hair care products, and Bumble and Bumble, LLC, the operator of a premier hair salon in New York City.  Bumble and bumble styling and other hair care products are distributed to top-tier salons and select specialty stores.  In fiscal 2004, we opened a second wholly-owned salon and a training and education center.  The founder and two of his partners own the remaining equity interests and have continued to manage the domestic operations.

 

kate spade beauty - - In November 1999, we obtained exclusive worldwide rights to use the kate spade trademark and related trademarks for the manufacture, marketing, distribution and sale of beauty products.  During fiscal 2002, we launched the first products - a distinctive and personal signature fragrance and companion products.

 

Darphin - In April 2003, we acquired Laboratoires Darphin, the Paris-based company dedicated to the development, manufacture and marketing of prestige skin care and makeup products which are distributed through high-end independent pharmacies and specialty stores.

 

Michael Kors - In May 2003, we entered into a license agreement for fragrances and beauty products under the “Michael Kors” trademarks and purchased certain related rights and inventory from another party.  All fragrances including MICHAEL and MICHAEL for Men, as well as ancillary bath and body products, are sold in department stores, specialty stores, at freestanding Michael Kors boutiques and over the Internet.

 

Rodan + Fields - In July 2003, we acquired the Rodan + Fields skin care line launched in 2002 by Stanford University-trained dermatologists Katie Rodan, M.D. and Kathy Fields, M.D.  The line offers solutions for specific skin problems, targeting them with individually packaged and dedicated regimens.  The line is currently sold in U.S. specialty stores and over the Internet at www.rodanandfields.com.

 

In addition to the foregoing brands, we manufacture and sell Kiton and Toni Gard products as a licensee.  In May 2004, we signed an agreement to create and market a new line of fragrances under the Sean John brand as a licensee.

 

In fiscal 2005, as part of our BeautyBank initiative, we plan to launch three new brands for sale at Kohl’s Department Stores:

 

American Beauty - The luxurious makeup and advanced skin care line that celebrates the beauty of American style.  Products have been developed to meet the needs of the modern American woman.

 

Flirt! - A makeup line that is all about experimenting with color, pop culture and trends.  With over 250 shades of lips, eyes, cheeks and more “you can Flirt! with the possibilities.”

 

Good Skin ™ - A line of skin care products created with the expertise of a dermatologist.  This line is color-coded for ease of use.  good skin, easy to choose, easy to use, doctor formulated for you. ™

 

4

 

Distribution

 

We sell our products principally through limited distribution channels to complement the images associated with our core brands.  These channels include more than 20,000 points of sale in over 130 countries and territories and consist primarily of upscale department stores, specialty retailers, upscale perfumeries and pharmacies and, to a lesser extent, freestanding company-owned stores and spas, our own and authorized retailer web sites, stores on cruise ships, in-flight and duty-free shops.

 

We maintain a dedicated sales force which sells to our retail accounts in North America and in the major overseas markets, such as Western Europe and Japan.  We have wholly-owned operations in over 30 countries, and controlling interests in joint ventures that operate in four other countries, through which we market, sell and distribute our products.  In certain countries, we sell our products through selected local distributors under contractual arrangements designed to protect the image and position of the brands.  In addition, we sell certain products in select domestic and international military locations and over the Internet.  For information regarding our net sales and long-lived assets by geographic region, see Note 18 of Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements, which is incorporated herein by reference.  Our net sales in the United States in fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002 were $2,928.7 million, $2,752.8 million and $2,663.8 million, respectively.  Our long-lived assets in the United States at June 30, 2004, 2003 and 2002 were $416.0 million, $420.1 million and $442.4 million, respectively.

 

There are risks inherent in foreign operations, including changes in social, political and economic conditions.  We are also exposed to risks associated with changes in the laws and policies that govern foreign investment in countries where we have operations as well as, to a lesser extent, changes in United States laws and regulations relating to foreign trade and investment.  In addition, our results of operations and the value of our foreign assets are affected by fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates.  Changes in such rates also may affect the relative prices at which we and foreign competitors sell products in the same markets.  Similarly, the cost of certain items required in our operations may be affected by changes in the value of the relevant currencies.

 

With the acquisition of Aveda in fiscal 1998, a controlling majority equity interest in Bumble and bumble in fiscal 2000 and Darphin in fiscal 2003, we broadened our distribution to include new channels, namely salons and high-end independent pharmacies.  We principally sell Aveda products to third-party distributors and prestige salons and spas, cosmetology schools and specialty retailers and directly to consumers at our own freestanding Aveda Experience Centers and certain Aveda Institutes.  There are currently about 7,200 points of sale, primarily in the United States, that sell Aveda products.  Bumble and bumble products are principally sold to approximately 1,600 independent salons, primarily in the United States.  Darphin products are sold through high-end independent pharmacies, principally in Europe, representing approximately 2,500 points of sale.

 

As part of our strategy to diversify our distribution, we have been selectively expanding the number of single-brand, freestanding stores that we own and operate.  The Origins, Aveda and MžAžC brands are the primary focus for this method of distribution.  At this time, we operate 435 single-brand, freestanding stores worldwide, the majority of which are in the United States, and expect that number to increase moderately over the next several years.

 

We sell some of our products directly to consumers over the Internet through our own websites (Estée Lauder, Clinique, Origins, Prescriptives, Bobbi Brown, MžAžC, Stila and Rodan + Fields), and through Gloss.com (Estée Lauder, Clinique, Prescriptives, Origins, MžAžC, Bobbi Brown, La Mer and Stila).  Gloss.com is currently a joint venture in which we own a controlling majority interest.  Chanel, Inc. and Clarins (U.S.A.) Inc. became partners in the venture in August 2000 and Chanel and Clarins products are also available on the website.

 

As is customary in the cosmetics industry, our practice is to accept returns of our products from retailers if properly requested, authorized and approved.  In accepting returns, we typically provide a credit to the retailer against sales and accounts receivable from that retailer on a dollar-for-dollar basis.  In recognition of this practice, and in accordance with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles, we report sales levels on a net basis, which is computed by deducting the amount of actual returns received and an amount established for anticipated returns from gross sales.  As a percentage of gross sales, returns were 4.6%, 5.1% and 4.8% in fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002, respectively.

 

Customers

 

Our strategy has been to build strong strategic relationships with selected retailers globally.  Senior management works with executives of our major retail accounts on a regular basis and we believe we are viewed as an important supplier to these customers.

 

5

 

For the fiscal years ended June 30, 2004, 2003 and 2002, our three largest customers accounted for 22%, 24% and 25%, respectively, of our net sales.  Individually no customer accounted for more than 10% of our net sales during fiscal 2004, 2003 or 2002.

 

Marketing

 

Our marketing strategy is built around our vision statement: “Bringing the Best to Everyone We Touch.”  Mrs. Estée Lauder formulated this marketing philosophy to provide high-quality service and products as the foundation for a solid and loyal consumer base.

 

Our marketing efforts focus principally on promoting the quality and benefits of our products.  Each of our brands is distinctively positioned, has a single global image, and is promoted with consistent logos, packaging and advertising designed to enhance its image and differentiate it from other brands.  We regularly advertise our products on television and radio, in upscale magazines and prestigious newspapers and through direct mail and photo displays at international airports.  In addition, our products receive extensive editorial coverage in prestige publications and other media worldwide.  Promotional activities and in-store displays are designed to introduce existing consumers to different products in the line and to attract new consumers.  Our marketing efforts also benefit from cooperative advertising programs with retailers, some of which are supported by coordinated promotions, such as purchase with purchase and gift with purchase.  At in-store counters, sales representatives offer personal demonstrations to market individual products as well as to provide education on basic skin care and makeup application.  We conduct extensive sampling programs and we pioneered gift with purchase as a sampling program.  We believe that the quality and perceived benefits of sample products have been effective inducements to purchases by new and existing consumers.

 

Starting with the launch of the Clinique website in 1996, we have used the Internet to educate and inform consumers about certain of our brands.  Currently, we have sixteen single-brand marketing sites, eight of which have e-commerce capabilities, and Gloss.com, our majority-owned, multi-brand marketing and e-commerce site.

 

Most of our creative marketing work is done by in-house creative teams.  The creative staff designs and produces the sales materials, advertisements and packaging for all products in each brand.  Total advertising and promotional expenditures were $1,612.0 million, $1,416.1 million and $1,317.4 million for fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002, respectively.  These amounts include expenses relating to purchase with purchase and gift with purchase promotions that are reflected in net sales and cost of sales.

 

Our marketing and sales executives spend considerable time in the field meeting with consumers and key retailers and consulting with sales representatives at the points of sale.  These include Estée Lauder Beauty Advisors, Clinique Consultants, Aramis Selling Specialists, Prescriptives Analysts, Origins Guides and MžAžC Makeup Artists.

 

Management Information Systems

 

Management information systems support business processes including product development, marketing, sales, order processing, production, distribution and finance.  Of the many systems currently being utilized, the most significant to our business needs are: (i) a centralized data repository of essential attributes for each of the products we offer, or plan to offer, which enables us to globally manufacture and market products of consistent quality; (ii) a sales analysis system to track weekly sales at the stock keeping unit (SKU) level at most significant retail sales locations (i.e., sell-through data), increasing our understanding of consumer preferences and enabling us to coordinate more effectively our product development, manufacturing and marketing strategies; (iii) an automated replenishment system with many of our key domestic customers, allowing us to replenish inventories for individual points of sale automatically, with minimal paperwork; and (iv) an inventory management system to provide us with a global view of finished goods availability relative to actual requirements, resulting in improved inventory control and distribution for both existing product lines and new product launches.

 

The efficiencies provided by these systems have resulted in increased sales, fewer out-of-stocks and reduced retail inventories.  We expect that these systems will continue to provide inventory and sales efficiencies in the short and medium terms.

 

As part of our ongoing effort to enhance these efficiencies, we are evaluating enterprise-wide global programs that could deliver a single set of integrated data, processes and technologies, which would be scalable and used to standardize business processes across brands, operating units and sales affiliates.

 

6

 

Research and Development

 

We believe that we are an industry leader in the development of new products.  Marketing, product development and packaging groups work with our research and development group to identify shifts in consumer preferences, develop new products and redesign or reformulate existing products.  In addition, research and development personnel work closely with quality assurance and manufacturing personnel on a worldwide basis to ensure consistent global standards for our products and to deliver products with attributes that fulfill consumer expectations.

 

We maintain ongoing research and development programs at our facilities in Melville, New York; Oevel, Belgium; Tokyo, Japan; Markham, Ontario; Blaine, Minnesota; and Colombes, France.  As of June 30, 2004, we had approximately 400 employees engaged in research and development.  Research and development expenditures totaled $67.2 million, $60.8 million and $61.3 million in fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002, respectively.  Our research and development group makes significant contributions toward improving existing products and developing new products and provides ongoing technical assistance and know-how to our manufacturing activities.  The research and development group has had long-standing working relationships with several U.S. and international medical and educational facilities, which supplement internal capabilities.  We do not conduct animal testing of our products.

 

Manufacturing and Raw Materials

 

We manufacture skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products in the United States, Belgium, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, Canada and France.  We continue to streamline our manufacturing processes and identify sourcing opportunities to improve innovation, increase efficiencies and reduce costs.  Our major manufacturing facilities operate as “focus” plants that primarily manufacture one type of product (e.g., lipsticks) for all of the principal brands.  Our plants are modern and our manufacturing processes are substantially automated.  While we believe that our manufacturing facilities are sufficient to meet current and reasonably anticipated manufacturing requirements, we continue to identify opportunities to make significant improvements in capacity and productivity.  To capitalize on innovation and other supply benefits, we continue to utilize third parties on a global basis for finished goods production.

 

The principal raw materials used in the manufacture of our products are essential oils, alcohol and specialty chemicals.  We also purchase packaging components that are manufactured to our design specifications.  Procurement of materials for all manufacturing facilities is generally made on a global basis through our centralized supplier relations department.  A concentrated effort in supplier rationalization has been made with the specific objective of reducing costs, increasing innovation and improving quality.  As a result of sourcing initiatives, there is increased dependency on certain suppliers, but we believe that these suppliers have adequate resources and facilities to overcome any unforeseen interruption of supply.  We are continually benchmarking the performance of the supply chain and will add or delete suppliers based upon the changing needs of the business.  We have, in the past, been able to obtain an adequate supply of essential raw materials and currently believe we have adequate sources of supply for virtually all components of our products.  As we integrate acquired brands, we continually seek new ways to leverage our production and sourcing capabilities to improve manufacturing performance.

 

7

 

Competition

 

The skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses are characterized by vigorous competition throughout the world.  Brand recognition, quality, performance and price have a significant influence on consumers’ choices among competing products and brands.  Advertising, promotion, merchandising, the pace and timing of new product introductions, line extensions and the quality of in-store sales staff also have a significant impact on consumers’ buying decisions.  We compete against a number of manufacturers and marketers of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, some of which have substantially greater resources than we do.

 

Our principal competitors among manufacturers and marketers of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products include:

•                  L’Oreal S.A., which markets Lancôme, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Garnier, L’Oreal, Maybelline, Biotherm, Helena Rubinstein, Redken, Matrix, Kiehl’s Since 1851, Shu Uemura and other brands;

•                  Unilever N.V., which markets Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Vera Wang, Pond’s, Thermasilk, Vaseline Intensive Care and other brands;

•                  The Procter & Gamble Company, which markets Cover Girl, Olay, Giorgio Beverly Hills, Hugo Boss, Rochas, Escada, Max Factor, Vidal Sassoon, Pantene, Clairol, Wella, Valentino, Gucci, Sebastian, Aussie and other brands;

•                  Beiersdorf AG, which markets Nivea, Eucerin, La Prairie, Juvena and other brands;

•                  Avon Products Inc., a direct marketer of Avon Color, Anew, Skin-so-soft, mark, Avon Wellness, beComing and other products;

•                  Shiseido Company, Ltd., which markets Shiseido, Clé de Peau Beauté, Zirh, Nars, Decléor, Issey Miyake, Jean Paul Gaultier, Helene Curtis, Za and other brands;

•                  LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton (“LVMH”), which markets Christian Dior, Kenzo, Givenchy, Guerlain, Benefit, Make Up For Ever, Fresh, Aqua di Parma and other brands;

•                  Coty, Inc., which markets Lancaster, Davidoff, Isabella Rossellini, Rimmel, Astor, Adidas, The Healing Garden, Chopard, Jennifer Lopez, Kenneth Cole, Marc Jacobs, Stetson and other brands;

•                  Revlon, Inc., which markets Revlon, Almay, Ultima II and other brands;

•                  Chanel, Inc.;

•                  Clarins S.A., which markets Clarins, Azzaro, Hermès, Lacoste, Burberry, Thierry Mugler and other brands; and

•                  Elizabeth Arden, Inc., which markets Elizabeth Arden, Elizabeth Taylor fragrances, Geoffrey Beene, Halston, Britney Spears and other brands.

 

We also face competition from retailers that have developed their own brands, such as:

•                  Gap Inc., which markets The Gap and Banana Republic products;

•                  Intimate Brands, which markets Victoria’s Secret Beauty, Bath and Body Works, and, in a venture with Shiseido, Aura Science; and

•                  Sephora.

 

Some retailers have acquired brands, such as Neiman Marcus Group, which acquired Laura Mercier.

 

Some of our competitors also have ownership interests in retailers that are customers of ours.  For example, LVMH has interests in DFS Group LTD, Miami Cruiseline Services, Le Bon Marché, la Samaritaine, eLuxury and Sephora.

 

Trademarks, Patents and Copyrights

 

We own all of the material trademark rights used in connection with the manufacturing, marketing and distribution of our major products both in the United States and in the other principal countries where such products are sold, except for the trademark rights relating to Tommy Hilfiger (including tommy and tommy girl), Donna Karan New York, DKNY, Michael Kors and kate spade, as to which we are the exclusive worldwide licensee for fragrances, cosmetics and related products.  Trademarks for our principal products are registered in the United States and in most of the countries in which such products are sold.  The major trademarks used in our business include the brand names Estée Lauder, Clinique, Aramis, Prescriptives, Origins, Tommy Hilfiger, Donna Karan New York, DKNY, MžAžC, Bobbi Brown, La Mer, Aveda, Stila, Jo Malone, Bumble and bumble, kate spade, Darphin, Michael Kors and Rodan + Fields and the names of many of the products sold under each of these brands.  We consider the protection of our trademarks to be important to our business.

 

A number of our products incorporate patented or patent-pending formulations.  In addition, several products are covered by design patents, patent applications or copyrights.  While we consider these patents and copyrights, and the protection thereof, to be important, no single patent or copyright is considered material to the conduct of our business.

 

8

 

Employees

 

At June 30, 2004, we had approximately 22,200 full-time employees worldwide (including sales representatives at points of sale who are employed by us), of whom approximately 10,900 are employed in the United States and Canada.  None of our employees in the United States is covered by a collective bargaining agreement.  In certain other countries a limited number of employees are covered by a works council agreement or other syndicate arrangements.  We believe that relations with our employees are good.  We have never encountered a material strike or work stoppage in the United States or in any other country where we have a significant number of employees.

 

Government Regulation

 

We and our products are subject to regulation by the Food and Drug Administration and the Federal Trade Commission in the United States, as well as by various other Federal, state, local and international regulatory authorities and the regulatory authorities in the countries in which our products are produced or sold.  Such regulations principally relate to the ingredients, labeling, packaging and marketing of our products.  We believe that we are in substantial compliance with such regulations, as well as with applicable Federal, state, local and international and other countries’ rules and regulations governing the discharge of materials hazardous to the environment.  There are no significant capital expenditures for environmental control matters either planned in the current year or expected in the near future.  Along with other unrelated parties, we have been named as a potentially responsible party by the Office of the Attorney General of the State of New York with regard to two landfills in Long Island, New York.  See “Item 3. Legal Proceedings.”

 

Seasonality

 

Our results of operations in total, by region and by product category, are subject to seasonal fluctuations, with net sales in the first half of the fiscal year typically being slightly higher than in the second half of the fiscal year.  The higher net sales in the first two fiscal quarters are attributable to the increased levels of purchasing by retailers for the holiday selling season and for fall fashion makeup introductions.  Fluctuations in net sales, operating income and product category results in any fiscal quarter may be attributable to the level and scope of new product introductions.  Additionally, gross margins and operating expenses are impacted on a quarter-by-quarter basis by variations in our launch calendar and the timing of promotions, including purchase with purchase and gift with purchase promotions.

 

Availability of Reports

 

We make available financial information, news releases and other information on our website at www.elcompanies.com.  There is a direct link from the website to our Securities and Exchange Commission filings via the EDGAR database, where our annual report on Form 10-K, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q, current reports on Form 8-K and any amendments to these reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 are available free of charge as soon as reasonably practicable after we file such reports and amendments with, or furnish them to, the Securities and Exchange Commission.  Stockholders may also contact Investor Relations at 767 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10153 or call 800-308-2334 to obtain a hard copy of these reports without charge.

 

Corporate Governance Guidelines and Code of Conduct

 

The Board of Directors has developed corporate governance practices to help it fulfill its responsibilities to stockholders in providing general direction and oversight of management of the Company.  These practices are set forth in the Company’s Corporate Governance Guidelines.  The Company also has a Code of Conduct (“Code”) applicable to all employees, officers and directors of the Company, including, without limitation, the Chief Executive Officer, the Chief Financial Officer and other senior financial officers.  These documents, as well as any waiver of a provision of the Code granted to any senior officer or director or material amendment to the Code, if any, may be found in the “Investor Information” section of the Company’s website:  www.elcompanies.com.  Stockholders may also contact Investor Relations at 767 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York 10153 or call 800-308-2334 to obtain a hard copy of these documents without charge.

 

9

 

Executive Officers

 

The following table sets forth certain information with respect to our executive officers.

 

Name		Age		Position(s) Held
Malcolm Bond		54		Executive Vice President – Global Operations
Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne		46		Group President
Daniel J. Brestle		59		Group President
Andrew J. Cavanaugh		57		Senior Vice President – Global Human Resources
Harvey Gedeon		61		Executive Vice President – Research and Development
Richard W. Kunes		51		Senior Vice President and Chief Financial Officer
Evelyn H. Lauder		68		Senior Corporate Vice President
Leonard A. Lauder		71		Chairman of the Board of Directors
Ronald S. Lauder		60		Chairman of Clinique Laboratories, Inc. and a Director
William P. Lauder		44		President and Chief Executive Officer and a Director
Sara E. Moss		57		Senior Vice President, General Counsel and Secretary
Cedric Prouvé		44		Group President, International
Philip Shearer		51		Group President
Sally Susman		42		Senior Vice President – Global Communications

 

Malcolm Bond became Executive Vice President – Global Operations in July 2004.  From January 2001 through June 2004, Mr. Bond was Senior Vice President – Global Manufacturing and Distribution.  From January 1999 to January 2001, he was Senior Vice President, Manufacturing, during which time his responsibilities also included corporate engineering and supply chain for the Company.  From September 1997 to January 1999, he was Vice President, Focus Factories, responsible for all of the Company’s factory operations.  Mr. Bond joined the Company in September 1995 as General Manager of the Company’s U.K. manufacturing operations, with responsibility for South African and Australian operations as well.  Prior to joining the Company, Mr. Bond was responsible for European Operations at the Alberto-Culver Company and, prior to that, was Vice President, Operations for Europe, Middle East and Africa for Revlon, Inc. from April 1979 until October 1992.

 

Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne became Group President responsible for Estée Lauder, M·A·C and our fragrance brands (principally Aramis, Tommy Hilfiger and Donna Karan) on a worldwide basis in July 2001.  Michael Kors was added in May 2003 and his responsibility for fashion stores was added in July 2004.  From 1998 to 2001, he was the President of Estee Lauder International, Inc. (“ELII”).  From 1992 to 1996, Mr. Bousquet-Chavanne was Senior Vice President – General Manager/Travel Retailing of ELII.  From 1989 to 1992, he was Vice President and General Manager of Aramis International, a division of ELII.  From 1996 to 1998, he was Executive Vice President/General Manager International Operations of Parfums Christian Dior S.A., based in Paris.

 

Daniel J. Brestle became Group President responsible for our specialty brands, such as Aveda, Bobbi Brown, Bumble and bumble, La Mer, Prescriptives,  Jo Malone, kate spade and Stila on a worldwide basis in July 2001.  He is also responsible for the recently acquired brands, Darphin and Rodan + Fields, and is responsible for BeautyBank and its brands.  From July 1998 through June 2001, he was President of Estée Lauder (USA & Canada).  Prior to July 1998, he was President of Clinique Laboratories, Inc. and had been the senior officer of that division since 1992.  From 1988 through 1992, he was President of Prescriptives U.S.A.  Mr. Brestle joined us in 1978.

 

Andrew J. Cavanaugh has been Senior Vice President - Global Human Resources since 1999.  He was Senior Vice President – Corporate Human Resources from 1994 through 1999.  Mr. Cavanaugh joined the Company in 1988 as Executive Director - Human Resources.

 

Harvey Gedeon became Executive Vice President – Research and Development in July 2004.  From January 2000 to July 2004, he was Senior Vice President – Research and Development.  Prior to joining the Company in January 2000, Mr. Gedeon was Executive Vice President and General Manager, Research and Development and Quality Assurance for Revlon, Inc. from 1997 through 1999.

 

Richard W. Kunes became Senior Vice President and Chief Financial Officer in October 2000.  He joined the Company in 1986 and served in various finance-related positions until November 1993, when he was named Vice President – Operations Finance Worldwide.  From January 1998 through September 2000, Mr. Kunes was Vice President – Financial Administration and Corporate Controller.  Prior to joining the Company, he held finance and controller positions at the Colgate-Palmolive Company.  Mr. Kunes is on the Board of Directors of Make-a-Wish Foundation of Suffolk County, NY, Inc.

 

10

 

Evelyn H. Lauder has been Senior Corporate Vice President of the Company since 1989, and previously served as Vice President and in other executive capacities since first joining the Company in 1959 as Education Director.  She is a member of the Board of Overseers, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, a member of the Boards of Trustees of Central Park Conservancy, Inc. and The Trinity School in New York City (Trustee Emirata), a member of the Board of Directors of New Yorkers for Parks, an Honorary Board Member of Cold Spring Harbor Laboratories and the Founder and Chairman of The Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

 

Leonard A. Lauder has been Chairman of the Board of Directors since 1995.  He served as Chief Executive Officer of the Company from 1982 through 1999 and President from 1972 until 1995.  Mr. Lauder formally joined the Company in 1958 after serving as an officer in the United States Navy.  Since joining the Company, he has held various positions, including executive officer positions other than those described above.  He is Chairman of the Board of Trustees of the Whitney Museum of American Art, a Charter Trustee of the University of Pennsylvania and a Trustee of The Aspen Institute.  He also served as a member of the White House Advisory Committee on Trade Policy and Negotiations under President Reagan.

 

Ronald S. Lauder has served as Chairman of Clinique Laboratories, Inc. since returning from government service in 1987.  He was Chairman of Estee Lauder International, Inc. from 1987 through 2002.  Mr. Lauder joined the Company in 1964 and has held various positions, including those described above, since then.  From 1983 to 1986, Mr. Lauder was Deputy Assistant Secretary of Defense for European and NATO Affairs.  From 1986 to 1987, he served as U.S. Ambassador to Austria.  He is non-executive Chairman of the Board of Directors of Central European Media Enterprises Ltd.  He is also Chairman of the Board of Trustees of the Museum of Modern Art.

 

William P. Lauder became President and Chief Executive Officer in July 2004.  From January 2003 through June 2004, he served as Chief Operating Officer.  From July 2001 until December 2002 he served as Group President responsible for the worldwide business of Clinique and Origins and our retail store and On-line operations.  From 1998 to 2001, he was President of Clinique Laboratories, Inc.  Prior to 1998, he was President of Origins Natural Resources Inc. and had been the senior officer of that division since its inception in 1990.  Prior thereto, he served in various positions since joining the Company in 1986.  He is a member of the Board of Trustees of The University of Pennsylvania and The Trinity School in New York City and the Boards of Directors of The Fresh Air Fund, the 92^nd Street Y, Survivors of the SHOAH Visual History Foundation and the Partnership for New York City.

 

Sara E. Moss joined the Company as Senior Vice President, General Counsel and Secretary in September 2003.  She was Senior Vice President and General Counsel of Pitney Bowes Inc. from 1996 to February 2003, and Senior Litigation Partner for Howard, Smith & Levin (now part of Covington & Burling) in New York from 1984 to 1996.  Prior to 1984, Ms. Moss served as an Assistant United States Attorney in the Criminal Division in the Southern District of New York, was an associate at the law firm of Davis, Polk & Wardwell and was Law Clerk to the Honorable Constance Baker Motley, a U.S. District Judge in the Southern District of New York.

 

Cedric Prouvé became Group President, International, effective January 2003.  He is responsible for sales and profits in all markets outside of North America and for all of the activities of our sales affiliates and distributor relationships worldwide.  He also oversees the Company’s travel retail business.  From August 2000 through 2002 he was the General Manager of our Japanese sales affiliate.  From January 1997 to August 2000, he was Vice President, General Manager, Travel Retail.  He started with us in 1994 as General Manager, Travel Retailing – Asia Pacific Region and was given the added responsibility of General Manager of the Company’s Singapore affiliate in 1995.  Prior to joining us he spent time with L’Oreal serving in sales and management positions of increasing responsibility in the Americas and Asia/Pacific.

 

Philip Shearer became Group President responsible for Clinique, Origins and our On-line operations in January 2003.  He joined the Company as Group President, International in September 2001.  Prior thereto, from 1998 to 2001, he was President of the Luxury Products Division of L’Oreal U.S.A., which included Lancôme, Helena Rubinstein, Ralph Lauren fragrances, Giorgio Armani and Kiehl’s Since 1851.  He served in various positions at L’Oreal from 1987, including management positions in the United Kingdom and in Japan.

 

Sally Susman has been Senior Vice President – Global Communications since September 2000 and is responsible for all media relations, internal communications and consumer relations for the Company and its brands.  Prior to joining the Company, Ms. Susman held several high-level communications and government relations positions at American Express Company from 1990 to 1993 and 1995 to 2000.  From 1993 to 1995, she was the Deputy Assistant Secretary for Legislative Affairs at the U.S. Department of Commerce.  Ms. Susman is a Commissioner on the New York City Commission on Women’s Issues and is a member of the Boards of Directors of Parsons School of Design and The National Partnership for Women and Families and is a Trustee of Connecticut College.

 

Each executive officer serves for a one-year term ending at the next annual meeting of the Board of Directors, subject to his or her applicable employment agreement and his or her earlier death, resignation or removal.

 

11

 

Item 2. Properties.

 

The following table sets forth our principal owned and leased manufacturing and research and development facilities as of August 31, 2004.  The leases expire at various times through 2015, subject to certain renewal options.

 

Location		Use		Approximate Square Footage
The Americas
Melville, New York (owned)		Manufacturing		300,000
Melville, New York (owned)		R&D		78,000
Blaine, Minnesota (owned)		Manufacturing and R&D		275,000
Oakland, New Jersey (leased)		Manufacturing		148,000
Bristol, Pennsylvania (leased)		Manufacturing		67,000
Agincourt, Ontario, Canada (owned)		Manufacturing		96,000
Markham, Ontario, Canada (leased)		Manufacturing		58,000
Markham, Ontario, Canada (leased)		R&D		26,000
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
Oevel, Belgium (owned)		Manufacturing		113,000
Oevel, Belgium (owned)		R&D		2,000
Petersfield, England (owned)		Manufacturing		225,000
Lachen, Switzerland (owned)		Manufacturing		53,000
Asia/Pacific
Tokyo, Japan (leased)		R&D		4,000

 

We own, lease and occupy numerous offices, assembly and distribution facilities and warehouses in the United States and abroad.  We consider our properties to be generally in good condition and believe that our facilities are adequate for our operations and provide sufficient capacity to meet anticipated requirements.  We lease approximately 310,000 square feet of rentable space for our principal offices in New York, New York and own an office building of approximately 57,000 square feet in Melville, New York.  As of August 31, 2004, we operated 503 freestanding retail stores, including 17 for the Estée Lauder brand, 17 for Clinique, 137 for Origins, 112 for MžAžC, 135 for Aveda, 1 for Bobbi Brown, 11 for Jo Malone, 2 for Bumble and bumble, 3 for Stila and 68 multi-brand stores.

 

Item 3. Legal Proceedings.

 

We are involved in various routine legal proceedings incident to the ordinary course of business.  In management’s opinion, the outcome of pending legal proceedings, separately and in the aggregate, will not have a material adverse effect on our business or consolidated financial condition.

 

In July 2003, we entered into a settlement agreement with the plaintiffs, the other Manufacturer Defendants (as defined below) and the Department Store Defendants (as defined below) in a consolidated class action lawsuit that had been pending in the Superior Court of the State of California in Marin County since 1998.  In connection with the settlement, the case has been refiled in the United States District Court for the Northern District of California on behalf of a nationwide class of consumers of prestige cosmetics in the United States.  The settlement requires Court approval and, if approved by the Court, will result in the plaintiffs’ claims being dismissed, with prejudice, in their entirety.  There has been no finding or admission of any wrongdoing by the Company in this lawsuit.  We entered into the settlement agreement solely to avoid protracted and costly litigation.  In connection with the settlement agreement, the defendants, including the Company, will provide consumers with certain free products and pay the plaintiffs’ attorneys’ fees.  To meet its obligations under the settlement, the Company took a special pre-tax charge of $22.0 million, or $13.5 million after-tax, equal to $.06 per diluted common share in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2003.  The charge did not have a material adverse effect on the Company’s consolidated financial condition.  In the Federal action, the plaintiffs, purporting to represent a class of all U.S. residents who purchased prestige cosmetics products at retail for personal use from eight department stores groups that sold such products in the United States (the “Department Store Defendants”), alleged that the Department Store Defendants, the Company and eight other manufacturers of cosmetics (the “Manufacturer Defendants”) conspired to fix and maintain retail prices and to limit the supply of prestige cosmetics products sold by the Department Store Defendants in violation of state and Federal laws.  The plaintiffs sought, among other things, treble damages, equitable relief, attorneys’ fees, interest and costs.

 

12

 

In 1998, the Office of the Attorney General of the State of New York (the “State”) notified the Company and ten other entities that they are potentially responsible parties (“PRPs”) with respect to the Blydenburgh landfill in Islip, New York.  Each PRP may be jointly and severally liable for the costs of investigation and cleanup, which the State estimates to be $16 million.  In 2001,  the State sued other PRPs (including Hickey’s Carting, Inc., Dennis C. Hickey and Maria Hickey, collectively the “Hickey Parties”), in the U.S. District Court for the Eastern District of New York to recover such costs in connection with the site, and in September  2002, the Hickey Parties brought contribution actions against the Company and other Blydenburgh PRPs.  These contribution actions seek to recover, among other things, any damages for which the Hickey Parties are found liable in the State’s lawsuit against them, and related costs and expenses, including attorneys’ fees.  In June 2004, the State added the Company and other PRPs as defendants in its pending case against the Hickey Parties.  The Company and certain other PRPs have engaged in settlement discussions which to date have been unsuccessful.  The Company intends to vigorously defend the pending claims.  While no assurance can be given as to the ultimate outcome, management believes that the resolution of the Blydenburgh matters will not have a material adverse effect on the Company’s consolidated financial condition.

 

In 1998, the State notified the Company and fifteen other entities that they are PRPs with respect to the Huntington/East Northport landfill.  The cleanup costs are estimated at $20 million.  No litigation has commenced.  The Company and other PRPs are in discussions with the State regarding possible settlement of the matter.  While no assurance can be given as to the ultimate outcome, management believes that the resolution of the matter will not have a material adverse effect on the Company’s consolidated financial condition.

 

In January 2004, the Portuguese Tax Administration issued a report alleging that our subsidiary had income subject to tax in Portugal for the three fiscal years ended June 30, 2002.  Our subsidiary has been operating in the Madeira Free Trade Zone since 1989 under license from the Madeira Development Corporation and, in accordance with such license and the laws of Portugal, the Company believes that its income is not subject to Portuguese income tax.  The subsidiary has filed an appeal of the finding to the Portuguese Secretary of State for Fiscal Matters.  As of August 31, 2004, no formal tax assessment has been made.  While no assurance can be given as to the ultimate outcome, management believes that the resolution of the matter will not have a material adverse effect on the Company’s consolidated financial condition.

 

Item 4.  Submission of Matters to a Vote of Security Holders.

 

No matters were submitted to a vote of security holders during the quarter ended June 30, 2004.

 

13

 

PART II

 

Item 5.  Market for Registrant’s Common Equity, Related Stockholder Matters and Issuer Purchases of Equity Securities.

 

Market for Registrant’s Common Equity and Related Stockholder Matters

 

Our Class A Common Stock is publicly traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol “EL.”  The following table shows the high and low sales prices as reported on the New York Stock Exchange Composite Tape and the cash dividends per share declared in fiscal 2004 and fiscal 2003.

 

		Fiscal 2004									Fiscal 2003
		High			Low			Cash Dividends			High			Low			Cash Dividends
First Quarter		$	37.99		$	32.60		$	—		$	35.99		$	25.80		$	—
Second Quarter		40.20			34.21			.30			30.10			25.20			.20
Third Quarter		44.58			37.55			—			31.04			25.73			—
Fourth Quarter		48.99			43.00			—			35.99			28.91			—
Year		48.99			32.60			$	.30		35.99			25.20			$	.20

 

We expect to continue the payment of cash dividends in the future, but there can be no assurance that the Board of Directors will continue to declare them.  In May 2002, after declaring the $.05 per share quarterly dividend that was paid in July 2002, the Board of Directors determined that it would pay future cash dividends on its common stock annually rather than quarterly.  The Board of Directors declared the first annual dividend of $.20 per share in October 2002 and it was paid in January 2003.  In November 2003, the Board of Directors declared an annual dividend of $.30 per share which was paid in January 2004.

 

As of August 31, 2004, there were approximately 4,212 record holders of Class A Common Stock and 21 record holders of Class B Common Stock.

 

Share Repurchase Program

 

We are authorized by the Board of Directors to repurchase up to 28.0 million shares of Class A Common Stock in the open market or in privately negotiated transactions, depending on market conditions and other factors.  As of June 30, 2004, the cumulative total of acquired shares pursuant to the authorization was 16.7 million, reducing the remaining authorized share repurchase balance to 11.3 million.  During fiscal 2004, we purchased approximately 2.8 million shares for $115.9 million as outlined in the following table:

 

 

(1)          The publicly announced repurchase program was last increased by 10.0 million shares on May 11, 2004.  The initial program covering the repurchase of 8.0 million shares was announced in September 1998 and increased by 10.0 million shares on October 30, 2002.  From July 1, 2004 through August 31, 2004, we purchased an additional 1.3 million shares for $54.9 million bringing the cumulative total of acquired shares to 18.0 million.

 

14

 

Equity Compensation Plan Information

 

The following table summarizes the equity compensation plans under which our securities may be issued as of June 30, 2004 and does not include grants made or cancelled and options exercised after such date.  The securities that may be issued consist solely of shares of our Class A Common Stock and, except as disclosed in note (b) to the table, all plans were approved by stockholders of the Company.

 

Equity Compensation Plan Information as of June 30, 2004

 

Plan Category		Number of securities to be issued upon exercise of outstanding options, warrants and rights		Weighted-average exercise price of outstanding options, warrants and rights		Number of securities remaining available for future issuance under equity compensation plans (excluding securities reflected in the first column)
Equity compensation plans approved by security holders(a)		28,949,750(b) (c)		$36.23		4,744,246(d)

 

(a)          Includes the Fiscal 1996 Share Incentive Plan (the “1996 Plan”), Fiscal 1999 Share Incentive Plan (the “1999 Plan”), Fiscal 2002 Share Incentive Plan (the “2002 Plan”), Non-Employee Director Share Incentive Plan (the “Director Plan”), two Sassaby stock option plans (see note (b)) and five employment agreements entered into in 1995 prior to the initial public offering.

(b)         Includes outstanding options in respect of 4,104 shares of Class A Common Stock that were granted under two stock option plans assumed by the Company when it acquired Sassaby, Inc. in 1997.  The Company never granted any additional options under the plans.

(c)          Excludes stock units in respect of 370,220 shares of Class A Common Stock.

(d)         The 1996 Plan, the 1999 Plan and the 2002 Plan are similar omnibus plans.  Each authorizes the Stock Plan Subcommittee of the Board of Directors to grant shares and benefits other than stock options.  As of June 30, 2004, there were 230,652, 169,282 and 3,520,837 shares of Class A Common Stock available for issuance under each plan, respectively.  Shares underlying grants cancelled or forfeited under the 1996 Plan and the 1995 employment agreements may be used for grants under the 1999 Plan or the 2002 Plan.  Shares underlying grants cancelled or forfeited under the 1999 Plan may be used for grants under the 2002 Plan.  The Director Plan provides for an annual grant of options and a grant of either options or stock units to non-employee directors.  As of June 30, 2004, there were 163,105 shares available pursuant to the Director Plan.  Additionally, there were 660,370 shares available for issuance pursuant to one employment agreement at June 30, 2004.  However, under the terms of that employment agreement no additional grants may be made, other than dividend equivalent stock units.  In fiscal 2004, the dividend equivalent units granted under that employment agreement were in respect of 1,223 shares.

 

If all of the outstanding options, warrants and rights and stock units, as well as the securities available for future issuance, included in the first and third columns in the table above were converted to shares of Class A Common Stock as of June 30, 2004, the total shares of Common Stock outstanding (i.e., Class A plus Class B) would increase 15% to 261,591,264.  Of the outstanding options to purchase 28,949,750 shares of Class A Common Stock, options in respect of 22,711,250 shares are exercisable at a price less than $48.78, the closing price on June 30, 2004.  Assuming the exercise of in-the-money options, the total shares outstanding would increase by 10% to 250,238,298.

 

Subsequent to June 30, 2004, the Company granted options under the terms of the 1996 Plan and the 2002 Plan described above to purchase an additional 1,857,700 of the Company’s Class A Common Stock with an exercise price at least equal to the fair market value on the date of grant.

 

15

 

Item 6.  Selected Financial Data.

 

The table below summarizes selected financial information.  For further information, refer to the audited consolidated financial statements and the notes thereto beginning on page F-1 of this report.

 

		Year Ended or at June 30
		2004			2003			2002			2001			2000
		(In millions, except per share data)
Statement of Earnings Data:
Net sales (a)		$	5,790.4		$	5,096.0		$	4,711.5		$	4,667.7		$	4,440.3
Gross profit (a)		4,314.1			3,771.6			3,451.0			3,441.3			3,202.3
Operating income		644.0			503.7			342.1			495.6			515.8
Interest expense, net (g)		27.1			8.1			9.8			12.3			17.1
Earnings before income taxes, minority interest, discontinued operations and accounting change (b)		616.9			495.6			332.3			483.3			498.7
Provision for income taxes		232.6			163.3			114.7			174.0			184.6
Minority interest, net of tax		(8.9		)	(6.7		)	(4.7		)	(1.9		)	—
Discontinued operations, net of tax (c)		(33.3		)	(5.8		)	(21.0		)	—			—
Cumulative effect of a change in accounting principle, net of tax		—			—			—			(2.2		)	—
Net earnings (b)		342.1			319.8		(d)	191.9		(e)	305.2		(f)	314.1
Preferred stock dividends (g)		—			23.4			23.4			23.4			23.4
Net earnings attributable to common stock (b)		342.1			296.4		(d)	168.5		(e)	281.8		(f)	290.7
Cash Flow Data:
Net cash flows provided by operating activities		$	669.8		$	553.1		$	519.3		$	305.4		$	442.5
Net cash flows used for investing activities		(208.0		)	(192.5		)	(217.0		)	(206.3		)	(374.3		)
Net cash flows used for financing activities		(216.0		)	(555.0		)	(123.1		)	(63.5		)	(87.9		)
Per Share Data:
Net earnings per common share from continuing operations (b) (c):
Basic		$	1.65		$	1.30	(d)	$	.80	(e)	$	1.19	(f)	$	1.22
Diluted		$	1.62		$	1.29	(d)	$	.79	(e)	$	1.17	(f)	$	1.20
Net earnings per common share (b):
Basic		$	1.50		$	1.27	(d)	$	.71	(e)	$	1.18	(f)	$	1.22
Diluted		$	1.48		$	1.26	(d)	$	.70	(e)	$	1.16	(f)	$	1.20
Weighted average common shares outstanding:
Basic		228.2			232.6			238.2			238.4			237.7
Diluted		231.6			234.7			241.1			242.2			242.5
Cash dividends declared per common share		$	.30		$	.20		$	.20		$	.20		$	.20
Balance Sheet Data:
Working capital		$	877.2		$	791.3		$	968.0		$	882.2		$	716.7
Total assets		3,708.1			3,349.9			3,416.5			3,218.8			3,043.3
Total debt (g)		535.3			291.4			410.5			416.7			425.4
Redeemable preferred stock (g)		—			360.0			360.0			360.0			360.0
Stockholders’ equity		1,733.5			1,423.6			1,461.9			1,352.1			1,160.3

 

(a)   Effective January 1, 2002, we adopted Emerging Issues Task Force (“EITF”) Issue No. 01-9, “Accounting for Consideration Given by a Vendor to a Customer.”  Upon adoption of this Issue, we reclassified revenues generated from our purchase with purchase activities as sales and the costs of our purchase with purchase and gift with purchase activities as cost of sales, which were previously reported net as operating expenses.  Operating income has remained unchanged by this adoption.  For purposes of comparability, these reclassifications have been reflected retroactively for all periods presented.

 

(b)   Pursuant to Statement of Financial Accounting Standards (“SFAS”) No. 142, “Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets,” financial results for periods subsequent to July 1, 2001 exclude goodwill amortization.  Goodwill amortization included in fiscal 2001 and 2000 was $20.9 million ($13.4 million after tax) and $17.6 million ($11.1 million after tax), respectively.  Excluding the effect of goodwill amortization in these same periods, diluted earnings per share would have been higher by $.06 and $.05, respectively.

 

16

 

(c)   In December 2003, we committed to a plan to sell the assets and operations of our former reporting unit that sold jane brand products and we sold them in February 2004.  As a result, all consolidated statements of earnings information in the consolidated financial statements and footnotes for fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002 has been restated for comparative purposes to reflect that reporting unit as discontinued operations.  Earnings data of the discontinued operation for fiscal 2001 and 2000 is not material to the consolidated results of operations and has not been restated.

 

(d)   Net earnings, net earnings attributable to common stock, net earnings per common share from continuing operations and net earnings per common share for the year ended June 30, 2003 included a special charge related to the proposed settlement of a legal action of $13.5 million, after-tax, or $.06 per diluted common share.

 

(e)   Net earnings, net earnings attributable to common stock, net earnings per common share from continuing operations and net earnings per common share for the year ended June 30, 2002 included a restructuring charge of $76.9 million (of which $0.5 million was included in discontinued operations), after tax, or $.32 per diluted common share, and a one-time charge of $20.6 million, or $.08 per common share, attributable to the cumulative effect of adopting SFAS No. 142, “Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets,” which is attributable to our former reporting unit that sold jane brand products and is included in discontinued operations.

 

(f)   Net earnings, net earnings attributable to common stock, net earnings per common share from continuing operations and net earnings per common share for the year ended June 30, 2001 included restructuring and other non-recurring charges of $40.3 million, after tax, or $.17 per diluted common share, and a one-time charge of $2.2 million, after tax, or $.01 per diluted common share, attributable to the cumulative effect of adopting SFAS No. 133, “Accounting for Derivative Instruments and Hedging Activities.”

 

(g)   During fiscal 2004, there was an increase of approximately $17.4 million in interest expense, net and a corresponding decrease in preferred stock dividends as a result of the adoption of SFAS No. 150 (see “Item 7. - Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations — Recently Issued Accounting Standards”).  Additionally, in connection with this pronouncement, redeemable preferred stock has been reclassified as a component of total debt subsequent to June 30, 2003.  The provisions of SFAS No. 150 did not provide for retroactive restatement of historical financial data.

 

Item 7.  Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.

 

CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES

 

The discussion and analysis of our financial condition and results of operations are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles.  The preparation of these financial statements requires us to make estimates and assumptions that affect the reported amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses reported in those financial statements.  These judgments can be subjective and complex, and consequently actual results could differ from those estimates.  Our most critical accounting policies relate to revenue recognition; concentration of credit risk; inventory; pension and other postretirement benefit costs; goodwill and other intangible assets; income taxes; and derivatives.

 

Revenue Recognition

Generally, revenues from merchandise sales are recorded at the time the product is shipped to the customer.  We report our sales levels on a net sales basis, which is computed by deducting from gross sales the amount of actual returns received and an amount established for anticipated returns.

 

As is customary in the cosmetics industry, our practice is to accept returns of our products from retailers if properly requested, authorized and approved.  In accepting returns, we typically provide a credit to the retailer against sales and accounts receivable from that retailer on a dollar-for-dollar basis.

 

Our sales return accrual is a subjective critical estimate that has a direct impact on reported net sales.  This accrual is calculated based on a history of gross sales and actual returns by region and product category.  In addition, as necessary, specific accruals may be established for future known or anticipated events.  As a percentage of gross sales, sales returns were 4.6%, 5.1% and 4.8% in fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002, respectively.

 

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Concentration of Credit Risk

An entity is vulnerable to concentration of credit risk if it is exposed to risks of loss greater than it would have had it mitigated its risks through diversification of customers.  The significance of such credit risk depends on the extent and nature of the concentration.

 

We have three major customers that owned and operated retail stores that in the aggregate accounted for $1,253.8 million, or 22%, of our consolidated net sales in fiscal 2004 and $166.6 million, or 25%, of our accounts receivable at June 30, 2004.  These customers sell products primarily within North America.  Although management believes that these customers are sound and creditworthy, a severe adverse impact on their business operations could have a corresponding material adverse effect on our net sales, cash flows and/or financial condition.

 

In the ordinary course of business, we have established an allowance for doubtful accounts and customer deductions in the amount of $30.1 million and $31.8 million as of June 30, 2004 and 2003, respectively.  Our allowance for doubtful accounts is a subjective critical estimate that has a direct impact on reported net earnings.  The allowance for doubtful accounts was reduced by $25.6 million, $30.3 million and $24.8 million for customer deductions and write-offs in fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002, respectively, and increased by $23.9 million, $31.5 million and $28.6 million for additional provisions in fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002, respectively.  This reserve is based upon the evaluation of accounts receivable aging, specific exposures and historical trends.

 

Inventory

We state our inventory at the lower of cost or fair market value, with cost being determined on the first-in, first-out (FIFO) method.  We believe FIFO most closely matches the flow of our products from manufacture through sale.  The reported net value of our inventory includes saleable products, promotional products, raw materials and componentry and work in process that will be sold or used in future periods.  Inventory cost includes raw materials, direct labor and overhead.

 

We also record an inventory obsolescence reserve, which represents the difference between the cost of the inventory and its estimated market value, based on various product sales projections.  This reserve is calculated using an estimated obsolescence percentage applied to the inventory based on age, historical trends and requirements to support forecasted sales.  In addition, and as necessary, we may establish specific reserves for future known or anticipated events.

 

Pension and Other Postretirement Benefit Costs

We offer the following benefits to some or all of our employees: a domestic trust-based noncontributory defined benefit pension plan  (“U.S. Plan”); an unfunded, nonqualified domestic noncontributory pension plan to provide benefits in excess of statutory limitations; a contributory defined contribution plan; international pension plans, which vary by country, consisting of both defined benefit and defined contribution pension plans; deferred compensation; and certain other postretirement benefits.

 

The amounts necessary to fund future payouts under these plans are subject to numerous assumptions and variables.  Certain significant variables require us to make assumptions that are within our control such as an anticipated discount rate, expected rate of return on plan assets and future compensation levels.  We evaluate these assumptions with our actuarial advisors and we believe they are within accepted industry ranges, although an increase or decrease in the assumptions or economic events outside our control could have a direct impact on reported net earnings.

 

The pre-retirement discount rate for each plan used for determining future net periodic benefit cost is based on a review of highly rated long-term bonds.  For fiscal 2004, we used a pre-retirement discount rate for our U.S. Plan of 5.75% and varying rates on our international plans of between 2.25% and 6.00%.  For fiscal 2004, we used an expected return on plan assets of 8.00% for our U.S. Plan and varying rates of between 3.25% and 7.50% for our international plans.  In determining the long-term rate of return for a plan, we consider the historical rates of return, the nature of the plan’s investments and an expectation for the plan’s investment strategies.  The U.S. Plan asset allocation as of June 30, 2004 was approximately 63% equity investments, 32% fixed income investments, and 5% other investments.

 

For fiscal 2005, we will use a pre-retirement discount rate for the U.S. Plan of 6.00% and anticipate using an expected return on plan assets of 7.75%.  The net change in these assumptions from those used in fiscal 2004 will cause a de minimis decrease in pension expense in fiscal 2005.  We will continue to monitor the market conditions relative to these assumptions and adjust them accordingly.

 

Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets

Goodwill is calculated as the excess of the cost of purchased businesses over the value of their underlying net assets.  Other intangible assets principally consist of purchased royalty rights and trademarks.  Goodwill and other intangible assets that have an indefinite life are not amortized.

 

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On an annual basis, we test goodwill and other intangible assets for impairment.  To determine the fair value of these intangible assets, there are many assumptions and estimates used that directly impact the results of the testing.  We have the ability to influence the outcome and ultimate results based on the assumptions and estimates we choose.  To mitigate undue influence, we use industry accepted valuation models and set criteria that are reviewed and approved by various levels of management.

 

Income Taxes

We account for income taxes in accordance with Statement of Financial Accounting Standards (“SFAS”) No. 109, “Accounting for Income Taxes.”  This Statement establishes financial accounting and reporting standards for the effects of income taxes that result from an enterprise’s activities during the current and preceding years.  It requires an asset and liability approach for financial accounting and reporting of income taxes.

 

As of June 30, 2004, we have current net deferred tax assets of $145.9 million and non-current net deferred tax liabilities of $26.8 million.  The net deferred tax assets assume sufficient future earnings for their realization, as well as the continued application of currently anticipated tax rates.  Included in net deferred tax assets is a valuation allowance of approximately $4.2 million for deferred tax assets, which relates to foreign tax loss carryforwards not utilized to date, where management believes it is more likely than not that the deferred tax assets will not be realized in the relevant jurisdiction.  Based on our assessments, no additional valuation allowance is required.  If we determine that a deferred tax asset will not be realizable, an adjustment to the deferred tax asset will result in a reduction of earnings at that time.

 

Furthermore, we provide tax reserves for Federal, state and international exposures relating to audit results, planning initiatives and compliance responsibilities.  The development of these reserves requires judgments about tax issues, potential outcomes and timing, and is a subjective critical estimate.

 

Derivatives

We account for derivative financial instruments in accordance with SFAS No. 133, “Accounting for Derivative Instruments and Hedging Activities,” as amended, which establishes accounting and reporting standards for derivative instruments, including certain derivative instruments embedded in other contracts, and for hedging activities.  This Statement also requires the recognition of all derivative instruments as either assets or liabilities on the balance sheet and that they be measured at fair value.

 

We currently use derivative financial instruments to hedge certain anticipated transactions and interest rates, as well as receivables and payables denominated in foreign currencies.  We do not utilize derivatives for trading or speculative purposes.  Hedge effectiveness is documented, assessed and monitored by employees who are qualified to make such assessments and monitor the instruments.  Variables that are external to us such as social, political and economic risks may have an impact on our hedging program and the results thereof.

 

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RESULTS OF OPERATIONS

 

We manufacture, market and sell skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products which are distributed in over 130 countries and territories.  The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2004, 2003 and 2002 and reflects the basis of presentation described in Note 2 and Note 18 to the Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements for all periods presented.  Products and services that do not meet our definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category.

 

In February 2004, we sold the assets and operations of our reporting unit that sold jane brand products.  Prior to the sale of the business, in December 2003, we committed to a plan to sell such assets and operations.  At the time the decision was made, circumstances warranted that we conduct an assessment of the tangible and intangible assets of the jane business.  Based on our assessment, we determined that the carrying amount of these assets as then reflected on our consolidated balance sheet exceeded their estimated fair value.  In accordance with the assessment and the closing of the sale, we recorded an after-tax charge to discontinued operations of $33.3 million for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2004.  The charge represents the impairment of goodwill in the amount of $26.4 million; the reduction in value of other tangible assets in the amount of $2.1 million, net of taxes; and the reporting unit’s operating loss of $4.8 million, net of tax.  Included in the operating loss of the fiscal year were additional costs associated with the sale and discontinuation of the business.  All consolidated statements of earnings information for the prior years presented have been restated for comparative purposes, including the restatement of the makeup product category and the Americas region data.

 

		Year Ended June 30
		2004			2003			2002
		(In millions)
NET SALES
By Region:
The Americas		$	3,148.8		$	2,931.8		$	2,846.0
Europe, the Middle East & Africa		1,870.2			1,506.4			1,261.1
Asia/Pacific		771.4			657.8			610.6
		5,790.4			5,096.0			4,717.7
Restructuring *		—			—			(6.2		)
		$	5,790.4		$	5,096.0		$	4,711.5
By Product Category:
Skin Care		$	2,140.1		$	1,893.7		$	1,703.3
Makeup		2,148.3			1,887.8			1,758.3
Fragrance		1,221.1			1,059.6			1,017.3
Hair Care		249.4			228.9			215.8
Other		31.5			26.0			23.0
		5,790.4			5,096.0			4,717.7
Restructuring *		—			—			(6.2		)
		$	5,790.4		$	5,096.0		$	4,711.5
OPERATING INCOME
By Region:
The Americas		$	319.2		$	255.3		$	222.8
Europe, the Middle East & Africa		274.4			227.7			179.9
Asia/Pacific		50.4			42.7			56.0
		644.0			525.7			458.7
Restructuring and Special Charges*		—			(22.0		)	(116.6		)
		$	644.0		$	503.7		$	342.1
By Product Category:
Skin Care		$	336.3		$	273.2		$	248.4
Makeup		257.7			206.6			183.1
Fragrance		24.8			32.1			13.4
Hair Care		23.6			14.8			13.7
Other		1.6			(1.0		)	0.1
		644.0			525.7			458.7
Restructuring and Special Charges *		—			(22.0		)	(116.6		)
		$	644.0		$	503.7		$	342.1

 

* Refer to the following tables and discussion for further information regarding these charges.

 

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The following table presents certain consolidated earnings data as a percentage of net sales:

 

		Year Ended June 30
		2004		2003		2002
Net sales		100.0	%	100.0	%	100.0	%
Cost of sales		25.5		26.0		26.8
Gross profit		74.5		74.0		73.2
Operating expenses:
Selling, general and administrative		63.1		63.3		63.3
Restructuring		—		—		2.3
Special charges		—		0.4		—
Related party royalties		0.3		0.4		0.4
		63.4		64.1		66.0
Operating income		11.1		9.9		7.2
Interest expense, net		0.4		0.2		0.2
Earnings before income taxes, minority interest and discontinued operations		10.7		9.7		7.0
Provision for income taxes		4.0		3.2		2.4
Minority interest, net of tax		(0.2	)	(0.1	)	(0.1	)
Net earnings from continuing operations		6.5		6.4		4.5
Discontinued operations, net of tax		(0.6	)	(0.1	)	(0.4	)
Net earnings		5.9	%	6.3	%	4.1	%

 

Reconciliations of Financial Results

 

The following tables present reconciliations of our financial results for the fiscal years ended June 30, 2003 and 2002 as reported in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“GAAP”) and those results adjusted to exclude certain charges described above each table.  We have presented these reconciliations because of the special nature of the charges or the fact that they are not necessarily comparable from period to period.  We believe that such measures provide investors with a view of our ongoing business trends and results of continuing operations.  This is consistent with the approach used by management in its evaluation and monitoring of such trends and results and provides investors with a base for evaluating future periods.  There were no events or transactions in fiscal 2004 for which we believe such a presentation would be relevant.

 

While we consider the non-GAAP financial measures useful in analyzing our results, it is not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with GAAP.

 

Fiscal 2003

The table below reconciles the fiscal 2003 results as reported and results prior to adjustment for a special pre-tax charge of $22.0 million, or $13.5 million after-tax, equal to $.06 per diluted common share, in connection with the proposed settlement of a class action lawsuit brought against us and a number of other defendants.  The amount of the charge in this case is significantly larger than similar charges we have incurred individually or in the aggregate for legal proceedings in any prior year and we do not expect to take a charge of a similar magnitude for a single matter like it in the near future.

 

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		Year Ended June 30, 2003
		(In millions, except per share data )
		Results As Reported			Reconciling Items			Non-GAAP Results
Net sales		$	5,096.0		$	—		$	5,096.0
Cost of sales		1,324.4			—			1,324.4
Gross profit		3,771.6			—			3,771.6
Gross margin		74.0		%				74.0		%
Operating expenses		3,267.9			22.0			3,245.9
Operating expense margin		64.1		%				63.7		%
Operating income		503.7			22.0			525.7
Operating income margin		9.9		%				10.3		%
Provision (benefit) for income taxes		163.3			(8.5		)	171.8
Net earnings from continuing operations		325.6			13.5			339.1
Discontinued operations, net of tax		(5.8		)	—			(5.8		)
Net earnings		$	319.8		$	13.5		$	333.3
Net earnings attributable to common stock		$	296.4		$	13.5		$	309.9
Diluted net earnings per common share:
Net earnings attributable to common stock from continuing operations		$	1.29		$	.06		$	1.35
Net earnings attributable to common stock		$	1.26		$	.06		$	1.32

 

Fiscal 2002

The table below reconciles the fiscal 2002 results as reported and results prior to adjustment for pre-tax restructuring charges of $117.4 million (of which $0.8 million was included in discontinued operations), or $76.9 million after-tax (of which $0.5 million was included in discontinued operations), equal to $.32 per diluted common share.  The restructuring charges were related to repositioning certain businesses as part of a globalization and reorganization initiative and are described in greater detail in Note 5 to Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements.  The restructuring was not considered part of our core continuing business in fiscal 2002. Management also excludes the related charge in evaluating its performance when comparing fiscal 2002 to future periods.

 

		Year Ended June 30, 2002
		(In millions, except per share data)
		Results As Reported			Reconciling Items			Non-GAAP Results
Net sales		$	4,711.5		$	6.2		$	4,717.7
Cost of sales		1,260.5			0.8			1,259.7
Gross profit		3,451.0			7.0			3,458.0
Gross margin		73.2		%				73.3		%
Operating expenses		3,108.9			109.6			2,999.3
Operating expense margin		66.0		%				63.6		%
Operating income		342.1			116.6			458.7
Operating income margin		7.2		%				9.7		%
Provision (benefit) for income taxes		114.7			(40.2		)	154.9
Net earnings from continuing operations		212.9			76.4			289.3
Discontinued operations, net of tax		(21.0		)	0.5			(20.5		)
Net earnings		$	191.9		$	76.9		$	268.8
Net earnings attributable to common stock		$	168.5		$	76.9		$	245.4
Diluted net earnings per common share:
Net earnings attributable to common stock from continuing operations		$	.79		$	.31		$	1.10
Net earnings attributable to common stock		$	.70		$	.32		$	1.02

 

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Fiscal 2004 as Compared with Fiscal 2003

 

NET SALES

 

Net sales increased 14% or $694.4 million to $5,790.4 million, reflecting growth in all product categories and all geographic regions led by double-digit growth in Europe, the Middle East & Africa and Asia/Pacific and the inclusion of a full year of net sales of the Darphin line of products, which was acquired during the fourth quarter of fiscal 2003.  Net sales results in Europe, the Middle East & Africa and Asia/Pacific benefited from the weakening of the U.S. dollar.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, net sales increased 9%.

 

Product Categories

 

Skin Care

Net sales of skin care products increased 13% or $246.4 million to $2,140.1 million.  This increase was primarily attributable to the recent launches of Hydra Complete Multi-Level Moisture Cream and Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher by Estée Lauder and Pore Minimizer by Clinique.  Additionally, the increase was supported by strong sales of Clinique’s 3-Step Skin Care System and the Repairwear line of products from Clinique as well as Re-Nutriv Intensive Lift Serum and Re-Nutriv Intensive Eye Crème by Estée Lauder.  Also contributing to this increase was the inclusion of a full year of net sales of the Darphin line of products, which are primarily skin care, and growth in developing brands.  Partially offsetting these increases were lower net sales of certain existing products such as Advanced Stop Signs by Clinique and White Light and Lightsource product lines by Estée Lauder.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, skin care net sales increased 8%.

 

Makeup

Makeup net sales increased 14% or $260.5 million to $2,148.3 million, in part, due to strong sales of our MžAžC and Bobbi Brown makeup artist lines.  The increase in net sales also reflected the current year launches of Ideal Matte Refinishing Makeup SPF 8 and Electric Intense LipCreme by Estée Lauder and Perfectly Real Makeup and Colour Surge Bare Brilliance by Clinique.  Also contributing to net sales growth were strong sales of High Impact Mascara, High Impact Eye Shadow and Skin Clarifying Makeup by Clinique, as well as Pure Color Lip Vinyl and Artist’s Lip and Eye Pencils from Estée Lauder.  Partially offsetting these increases were lower net sales of certain existing products such as So Ingenious Multi-Dimension Liquid Makeup and Pure Color Lipstick from Estée Lauder and Moisture Surge Lipstick from Clinique.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, makeup net sales increased 10%.

 

Fragrance

Net sales of fragrance products increased 15% or $161.5 million to $1,221.1 million, primarily attributable to the current year launches of Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise, Aramis Life, Clinique Simply and the Tommy Jeans collection.  These product launches primarily contributed to increased fragrance net sales outside the United States.  Additionally, the increase in net sales benefited from improved results from our travel retail business.  These net sales increases were partially offset by lower net sales of Estée Lauder pleasures, Intuition and Beautiful, certain Tommy Hilfiger products and Clinique Happy.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, fragrance net sales increased 10%.

 

Hair Care

Hair care net sales increased 9% or $20.5 million to $249.4 million.  This increase was primarily the result of sales growth from Aveda and Bumble and bumble products due to an increase in sales at existing salons and spas, new salon and spa openings and the success of new and existing products.  Aveda net sales also increased as a result of the opening of new Company-owned Aveda Experience Centers.  Partially offsetting the increase were lower net sales of Clinique’s Simple Hair Care System.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, hair care net sales increased 7%.

 

The introduction of new products may have some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning.

 

Geographic Regions

Net sales in the Americas increased 7% or $217.0 million to $3,148.8 million, primarily reflecting growth from our newer brands, the success of new and recently launched products and increases from most of the Company’s freestanding retail stores, all of which reflected the strengthening retail environment.  Nevertheless, the prestige fragrance business in the United States continues to be challenging.

 

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In Europe, the Middle East & Africa, net sales increased 24% or $363.8 million to $1,870.2 million, primarily reflecting higher net sales from our travel retail business, the United Kingdom, Spain, Greece and South Africa, as well as the inclusion of a full year of net sales of the Darphin line of products.  We also benefited from the effect of favorable foreign currency exchange rates to the U.S. dollar.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa increased 14%.

 

Net sales in Asia/Pacific increased 17% or $113.6 million to $771.4 million, primarily due to higher net sales in Japan, Australia, Taiwan, China and Thailand.  Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, net sales in Asia/Pacific increased 9%.

 

We strategically stagger our new product launches by geographic market, which may account for differences in regional sales growth.

 

COST OF SALES

 

Cost of sales as a percentage of total net sales improved to 25.5% from 26.0% reflecting production and supply chain efficiencies of approximately 70 basis points and lower costs from promotional activities of approximately 60 basis points.  Partially offsetting these improvements were changes in exchange rates of approximately 40 basis points and costs related to  inventory obsolescence and reconditioning and re-handling of goods of approximately 20 basis points. Also offsetting these improvements were costs associated with higher travel retail sales, which contributed approximately 10 basis points.  Travel retail has a higher cost of goods sold percentage because of its higher mix of fragrance sales coupled with its margin structure.

 

Since certain promotional activities are a component of sales or cost of sales and the timing and level of promotions vary with our promotional calendar, we have experienced, and expect to continue to experience, fluctuations in the cost of sales percentage.  In addition, future cost of sales mix may be impacted by the inclusion of new brands which have margin and product cost structures different than our existing brands.

 

OPERATING EXPENSES

 

Operating expenses decreased to 63.4% of net sales as compared with 64.1% of net sales in the prior year.  Prior-year operating expenses included a charge related to the pending settlement of a legal proceeding of $22.0 million or 0.4% of net sales.  Before considering the effect of this charge, operating expenses as a percentage of net sales decreased 30 basis points from 63.7% in the prior year.  Operating expenses as a percentage of net sales decreased approximately 100 basis points primarily due to the higher growth rate in net sales, particularly in the travel retail business, as well as our ongoing cost containment efforts to maintain expenses in line with our business needs, partially offset by operating expenses related to BeautyBank, the higher operating costs associated with newly acquired brands and expenses related to compliance with new regulatory requirements (such as those arising under the Sarbanes Oxley Act of 2002).  Partially offsetting the net favorability in the current year were higher levels of advertising, merchandising and sampling expenses incurred to support new and recently launched products of approximately 70 basis points.

 

Changes in advertising, sampling and merchandising spending result from the type, timing and level of activities related to product launches and rollouts, as well as the markets being emphasized.

 

Under agreements covering our purchase of trademarks for a percentage of related sales, royalty payments totaling $18.8 million and $20.3 million in fiscal 2004 and 2003, respectively, have been charged to expense. Such payments were made to Mrs. Estée Lauder until her death on April 24, 2004, after which time the final payments ceased to accrue and were made to a trust.  This event resulted in a reduction of operating expenses in fiscal 2004 of $3.7 million, or $2.2 million after tax.  We will realize a benefit from the elimination of these royalty payments in fiscal 2005.

 

OPERATING RESULTS

 

Operating income increased 28% or $140.3 million to $644.0 million.  Operating margins were 11.1% of net sales in the current period as compared with 9.9% in the prior year.  Prior year results include a charge related to the pending settlement of a legal proceeding of $22.0 million.  Absent this charge, operating income increased 23% or $118.3 million and operating margins increased 80 basis points from fiscal 2003.  These increases in operating income and operating margin reflect sales growth, improvements in the components of cost of sales and a reduction in operating expenses as a percentage of net sales.

 

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